1.  MUST clean A/C system with an approved flush, using an approved flushing method (R141b and Dura Flush are approved).  If an approved flush is not available, an in line filter MUST be installed per the instructions included with the compressor.

2.   MUST replace filter drier or accumulator.  No exceptions, if you do not buy from us, keep you receipt.

3.   MUST replace orifice tube or liquid line that contains orifice tube (if applicable).

4.   Inspect/replace thermostatic expansion valve & clean inlet screen (if applicable).

5.   Check for proper air flow through cooling fins of condenser & radiator (condenser may need to be replaced, see additional information in the instructions included with the compressor).

6.   Check for proper fan clutch or electric fan operation.

7.   Check compressor clutch air gap before installation (refer to OEM or compressor manufacturer’s specifications).

8.   Must add correct type & amount of refrigerant oil (refer to OEM or compressor manufacturer’s specifications).

9.   After hose assemblies are attached, turn compressor shaft (not just the clutch pulley) a minimum of 10 times to clear oil from compressor (a spanner wrench may be required).

10.  Check compressor clutch electrical circuit for proper voltage (use either OEM or compressor manufacturer’s specifications).

11.   Use only R12 or R134a refrigerant.

12.   Evacuate entire A/C system for a minimum of 45 minutes if the temperature is above 80 degrees (60 minutes for dual air system or if temperature in below 80 degrees).

1)   Remove refrigerant, following all federal guidelines and regulations and remove the old compressor.  Disconnect the high pressure line (the small line) at the evaporator (for now leave the orifice tube /expansion valve in place). 

2)   IMPORTANT:  The high pressure lines and condenser will most likely be dirty.   Flush the lines and the condenser with the recommended liquid flush followed with compressed air.   It's easy.  Pour cleaner, about 1 quart, in the high pressure line where it attached to the compressor.  Let it flow down into the condenser and then blow it out with plenty of air. Once fluid and trash quit coming out, repeat with more cleaner and air.  Do this until you get clean fluid to exit the lines. 

3)   In most cases the orifice screen or drier filter will have kept the evaporator free from debris.   If the evaporator is dirty it must be cleaned.  Use only a "no residue" solvent in the evaporator as these solvents tend to evaporate quickly.   Extra care is necessary to blow all the solvent from the evaporator as often the tubes are not at the lowest point of the core.  If the evaporator is flushed you should allow additional time with the vacuum pump on the system in order to "boil out" all the solvent.  No solvent can be left in the system. 

4)   Always, WITH NO EXCEPTION, install a new accumulator or drier filter, and orifice tube (certain vehicles require a new "liquid line" which contains the orifice tube).   It is acceptable to use the old expansion valve, on vehicles so equipped, if it is clean and in working order.  At this point, with everything clean, install the compressor.

5)   Vacuum and service the system (Vacuum the system a minimum of 30 minutes. One (1) hour is the Evaporator was flushed). 

             **     Our compressors are shipped with NO OIL.   New compressors may be shipped with or without oil, so check tagging and labeling on the box.  Add the appropriate oil charge to the system based on manufacturers' specifications prior to the refrigerant charge.  (Most front air only systems use 8 total ounces of refrigerant oil.  Most rear air systems (i.e.. Minivans, etc) use 12 total ounces of refrigerant oil. PLEASE CHECK MANUFACTURERS SPECIFICATIONS. 

            We recommend PAG oil of the appropriate viscosity which will be compatible with R12 or R134a refrigerants.  Note: We make every effort to supply all compressors with the appropriate electrical connections.  However, it is possible that the connector on our compressor could be different that your application. If this is the case, you may cut the wire in order to use your connection WITHOUT affecting your warranty.     If switches and/or a line manifold are necessary, use these from the old unit.  IMPORTANT NOTE:  All compressors are bench tested at standard RPM's, However, all compressors MAY NOT ALWAYS turn by hand!

1.    A copy of the original repair order.

2.    A copy of the invoice the unit was purchased on.

3.    A copy of the parts supplier invoice for the receiver drier, expansion valve, orifice tube (if equipped), A/C system flush, A/C hose assemblies (if applicable) and any other components replaced when the compressor was installed.

4.     A copy of the second (replacement) work order